If the name To Tei Wan rings a bell, it’s because it is the starting point for the Dragon’s Back Hike. But running parallel and below the mighty Dragon’s Back is a Coastal Village Path that connects Lan Nai Wan to To Tei Wan.
The Coastal Village Path connects two bays (Lan Nai Wan to To Tei Wan) and five villages – Lan Nai Wan Tsuen, Tung Ah Tsuen, Tung Ah Pui Tsuen, Ngan Hang Tsuen, and To Tei Wan Tsuen. It’s an easy, scenic walk that has a couple of hidden gems along the way, including a beautiful temple, military pillboxes, and beaches.
About the Tai Tam Coastal Village Path
The Coastal Village Path runs along Tai Tam Harbour parallel to Hong Kong Trail Section 7, under Shek O Country Park. And the villages lie directly across Redhill Peninsula (Pak Pat Shan) in Tai Tam, which is visible throughout the walk along with Stanley.
The walk between Lan Nai Wan to To Tei Wan is approximately 2 km, and the steps up and down connecting it to Shek O Road add another 1 km. But other than the climb back to Shek O Road, the walk is on a flat trail and quite easy.
It is possible to descend to the Coastal Village Walk from the steps to Lan Nai Wan or the steps to To Tei Wan. However, I recommend starting from Lan Nai Wan and ending at To Tei Wan. I always prefer to end at the more scenic location, and in this case, To Tei Wan has a beautiful beach.
Once on the bus, alight at the Lin Hok Sin Koon stop. This is a tricky bus stop as it’s on a narrow, winding road, with little room for pedestrians.
Once at the stop, very carefully cross the road and walk right. Be mindful of cars and buses on either side of the road.
Just around the bend are the steps on the left to Lan Nai Wan Village. Make sure you get off the road immediately and onto the steps which are the starting point.
To Lan Nai Wan
The path to Lan Nai Wan Village essentially involves walking down the steps from Shek O Road.
As you begin the descent, you can see the residential complexes across Tai Tam Harbour on Redhill Peninsula.
Halfway through the descent, the steps cross the perpendicular path of Section 7 of the Hong Kong Trail. At this point, continue walking straight downhill.
The steps soon end and give way to an inclined path, just behind the bay. And finally, it ends next to the marshy area of Lan Nai Wan Bay.
Lan Nai Wan Tsuen
The end of the steps marks the start of the Coastal Village Path. Once at Lan Nai Wan Tsuen, turn left and walk on the path till you reach the temple complex of Lin Hook Sin Koon.
The main attraction in this small village is the Lin Hook Sin Koon, a Taoist temple. The temple complex consists of a garden, an artificial pond, a small building and of course the temple.
At the end of the village is a small pier. You can relax and soak in the views of the Tai Tam Harbour, Redhill, and Stanley in the distance from here.
Once you’re done admiring Lin Hook Sin Koon, the coastal village walk continues on a slightly hidden path, immediately to the left after the bridge next to the temple.
Tung Ah Tsuen
Once you return to the Coastal Village Path, the next village is a 400-metre walk. The walk is fairly straightforward and even offers views of Tai Tam Harbour.
When you reach Tung Ah Village, you’ll notice some old abandoned homes with trees and creepers that have reclaimed them.
Walk around the houses to the right and you can step onto the small, rocky beach at Tung Ah Village.
From here you can admire Lan Nai Wan Bay and Tai Tam Harbour. However, the main attraction in this village is an old military pillbox.
At the beach, walk to the left where you’ll see the remains of the pillbox and battery (bunker).
If you’re slightly adventurous, you can continue walking along the rocky shoreline to the other side of the headland to enjoy the views!
After exploring Tung Ah Village, return to the Coastal Village Path (next to the abandoned houses), and continue walking.
Tung Ah Pui Tsuen
The walk to the next village is a short 250 metres. At the halfway point, there are steps to the Hong Kong Trail. Don’t take the steps up, stay on the path.
The moment you step into Tung Ah Pui Village, you’ll immediately notice that it’s not like the other villages on this walk.
The small village homes are replaced by large villas with manicured gardens. There are benches and lovely seating areas on the shore.
There was even a tree with hanging Coke and Sprite bottles!
Stepping into Tung Ah Pui felt like we’d been transported into a quaint, hidden secret in Tai Tam Harbour.
Of course, I later learned that this village was “allegedly illegally occupied for over 30 years” by wealthy and influential individuals.
But that aside, the best way to explore Tung Ah Pui Village is by walking along the shoreline and admiring the villas. And at the end of the coastline is another pillbox (unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the pillbox).
Once you’re done exploring the pillbox and admiring the views, return to the Coastal Village Path between the villas.
Ngan Hang Tsuen
The next village on the Coastal Village Path is a 300-metre walk. The walk is quite straightforward, but navigating through the village is slightly confusing.
The first thing you’ll notice when entering Ngan Hang Tsuen is a stream that flows into the sea. Make sure to cross the bridge, over the stream, and not walk straight along the stream.
Once on the other side, you can walk onto the small beach in this village.
Other than the beach, there isn’t much to see in Ngan Hang Village. So, to continue on the Coastal Village Path, look for the steps next to a fence on the side of the hill.
In case you haven’t noticed by now, there are arrows on rocks pointing you in the right direction.
Once you cross the mound, you’ll arrive at the second part of Ngan Hang Village, where there are mostly abandoned homes.
Stay on the path, cross the bridge, and then walk up the steps on the left. The steps lead you to a landing with tiles on the floor.
The Coastal Village Path continues on the steps next to the tiles.
To Tei Wan Tsuen
The walk to To Tei Wan is the longest distance between two villages on this path. It’s the least maintained section on the path.
After walking approximately 300 metres, the Coastal Village Path merges with Hong Kong Trail Section 7. At this point, stay on the path on the right and walk for another 300 metres to arrive at To Tei Wan. Just before the final steps to the beach, there are signs to Dragon’s Back. Ignore the signs for now, and walk down to the village.
To Tei Wan is another small bay within Tai Tam Harbour, with a beautiful soft sand beach that is a popular area for kayaking and sailing.
The beach itself is a great spot to relax and enjoy yourself after completing the Coastal Village Path.
There is a small barbecue shack next to the kayak rental shop, and we also saw a few people barbecuing on the beach itself.
Not surprisingly, there is another pillbox hidden under the steps on the beach. Unfortunately, the structure is completely covered by vines and trees and it is difficult to get a good look at it.
Return to Shek O Road
To Tei Wan marks the end of the Coastal Village Path and now it’s time to return to Shek O Road.
Simply trace your steps back to the steps that brought you to the beach and follow the signs to Dragon’s Back and Hong Kong Trail.
The steps up to Shek O Road are well maintained, with no vegetation growing on them. But it’s still quite a challenge to climb them to the top.
In fact, given how easy the Coastal Village Path is, climbing these steps back to Shek O Road is the toughest section of this exploratory walk.
Finally, when you arrive on Shek O Road, you’ll find yourself at the To Tei Wan bus stop, directly opposite the starting point for the Dragon’s Back Hike.
If you’re up for a challenge, why not continue to Shek O Peak?
Coastal Village Path, Tai Tam Harbour
We hope you enjoyed our guide to this exploratory coastal walk in Tai Tam Bay through these five villages. I was pleasantly surprised by the views, pillboxes, villages, and the temple. I didn’t have high expectations during the walk but was pleasantly surprised.
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